Let’s start with the front lining. First of all, I found I had to change the pattern a little there. As you can see in the first picture, I took away some width of the front facing, reducing it to about 15 cm (the line in black ink).
Have a look at what the book has to say about the cut of the lining pieces:
As you can see, it’s quite straightforward. I decided against the darts, since I do not have the shoulder arrow on the outside piece, either, and the vertical reduction seam (that starts at the armscye) is so narrow, in my pattern, thatI do not think it will make a difference with regard to the fit. Besides… the lazy bunch at Belstaff obviously didn’t do either of those darts anyway 😉 Continue reading Test Coat Step VI – Lining→
For the most part, making the belt was straightforward – I’m not entirely happy with it, though. You’ll see why, in a minute.
The four belt pieces are identical in shape. I chalked the rounded corners on the wool pieces as well as two pieces of the light hair canvas (believing that interfacing only one of the backing parts of each belt-half ought to suffice… then).
Finally I have had the time to start work on the coat itself! And it’s very pleasing to do something involving needle and thread and not merely rulers and paper!
Preparing the front pieces
After closing the seam running from the armscye downwards and securing the slit that will later be covered by the pocket, I started, enthusiastically, by padding the hair canvas to the right front piece. Because it interested me. And because I wanted to see the effect this had on the fall of the fabric for myself.
Well. What I should have done before, is a) ironing fusible interfacing on the area where the welt pockets are going to be inserted in the next step, and b) fix the placket in the shoulder area.
As I only realised this after I had completed the padding, I had to remove the whole thing again, of course. Well, it didn’t happen again on the left front piece afterwards…
The closed side dart and the horizontal cut covered by fusible interfacing. You can also see the area where the welt pocket will go, which I have also doubled with the same light, woven fusible.
This has only partly been in coming so long because of, well, procrastination on my part… I had to switch to an older camera that’s got severe connectability issues with anything newer than XP. But now it’s running just fine, so I can properly update again.
All right. First of all, a picture of the collection of different hair canvases and other interfacings I ordered for trying out on the test coat:
I’ll add more specific description when I get to using them… Most are the sew-in variant, but there are also two fusibles I might try on smaller bits and pieces.
Got an excellent book for my birthday, that’ll help me a lot with the COAT (I hope).
The title is “Atelier Fachwissen” (“Studio Know-How” ;)) and it’s one of the books edited by the “Rundschau Verlag”, which also publishes one of the few remaining professional tailors’ magazines, “Rundschau für internationale Damen-/Herrenmode…”. This book has it ALL! The pictures are in b/w, but pretty clear, and it covers almost all the points I need. For some reason, there are no explicit instructions concerning double-breasted coats/jackets anywhere, which I do find a bit strange. It’s not that unusual to have a double-breasted coat, surely…
But otherwise, the instructions are all there, and I’ll surely refer back to this one quite a bit in future, once I’ve actually cut the fabric and started putting the (trial) coat together. More pictures will probably follow, as well…