Tag Archives: pattern

Five Hundred Days Later…

image

… I have finally found a way to continue my wallpaper, that is both practical and yields clear-edged results! HOORAY!
I just had to share the news, but will write more about the method, and the looong way there, later on.

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Test Coat Step VI – Lining

Let’s start with the front lining. First of all, I found I had to change the pattern a little there. As you can see in the first picture, I took away some width of the front facing, reducing it to about 15 cm (the line in black ink).

front_lining01

Have a look at what the book has to say about the cut of the lining pieces:

front_lining00

As you can see, it’s quite straightforward. I decided against the darts, since I do not have the shoulder arrow on the outside piece, either, and the vertical reduction seam (that starts at the armscye) is so narrow, in my pattern, thatI do not think it will make a difference with regard to the fit. Besides… the lazy bunch at Belstaff obviously didn’t do either of those darts anyway 😉 Continue reading Test Coat Step VI – Lining

Wallpaper issues…

Just wanted to let you know that I have not dropped dead from some sudden illness, or vanished for good. There are several reasons why this page hasn’t been updated for some time, most of them to do with stupid Real Life developments.

But, alas, there is another reason why there weren’t any progress reports on The Wallpaper, in particular. After two more or less successful rows I had to face the fact that my MO was not practical, not economically sensible, and not healthy, either.

Not practical, as the cardboard stencil could only be employed with the help of another person to either do the spraying, or fixating the stencil.

Not economic, because to achieve the intended colour density and uniformity, I used up about one can of spray paint per row.

Not healthy because using that amount of paint in a closed space makes said space more or less unusable for at least one or two days; and that’s leaving aside the fact that there’s no way to avoid breathing in the stuff while doing the spraying itself. Short of a gas mask, I mean.

All this doesn’t mean I’m going to give up on the project, though, as I do own a vinyl cutter… A late inspiration, I know 😉 The thing hasn’t been used in years but Internet research assures me there are still ways to get it working, so the Wallpaper Project shall return once I’ve actually figured it out.

Right now I’m looking into mixing the colour of the first two rows from… varnish? lacquer? You know what I’m talking about, to match the existing bits. Although, knowing my stupid perfectionist self there is a real danger I’ll redo those first rows if the rest works much better, anyway……

I’ll keep you posted.

Cutting outer fabric and a bit of hair canvas…

This has only partly been in coming so long because of, well, procrastination on my part… I had to switch to an older camera that’s got severe connectability issues with anything newer than XP. But now it’s running just fine, so I can properly update again.

All right. First of all, a picture of the collection of different hair canvases and other interfacings I ordered for trying out on the test coat:

interfacing_collection
I’ll add more specific description when I get to using them… Most are the sew-in variant, but there are also two fusibles I might try on smaller bits and pieces.

Continue reading Cutting outer fabric and a bit of hair canvas…

The intended result…

I guess I should have done this before: post pictures of what the intended result with the pattern I'm adapting looks like.

In the schematic it's this. You see that there are a number of deviations from the Milford look I'm aiming for, that I've taken care of through changes as recorded in my posts of pattern construction, so far. Most notably the wider cut of the lapel, the lack of pleats or arrows in the back, and the pockets.
schematic_ulster01

And here's a little (like, tiny) drawing that, I think, shows the belt-less version, rather.
drawing_ulster01

Tissue paper pattern! (Part 1)

Okay. This has taken me inexcusably long due to different RL issues, including the cold in my sewing room… But I’ve finally finished the first set of the tissue pattern.
tissuepattern_part1
I cut seperate patterns for the following outer fabric pieces: belt, pockets, upper and under collar, upper and under collar stand; plus patterns for the front facing and hair canvas interfacing.
I have not cut patterns for upper and under sleeves, cuffs, all the lining (and the intermediate lining I am still considering) or the placket, yet.
So, here goes: Continue reading Tissue paper pattern! (Part 1)

Step XII – Or: The Puzzling Case of the Sleeve

Okay, there IS a reason why it took me forever to get on with the pattern. I was having a heated debate with myself about the sleeve.  A coat like this ought to have a sleeve consisting of two pieces! I know that Jessamygriffin went with a one-pice sleeve, and the result looks fine, but well… In the back views of the coat you can see one seam running along the back of the arm (which kind of seriously suggests that the sleeve indeed was cut in two pieces), but there is no proof of a second seam on the inside of the arm, which would be conclusive evidence… After a little chat with the brilliant Bee, best beta and incredibly knowledgeable friend, I have now finally decided to try a two-piece sleeve. The cuff that will be added later on, of course, will need to be made of only one, continuous piece of fabric. First of all, I need to make a confession. I have ridiculously long arms. So don’t wonder if I determine my Ärl = Ärmellänge (length of sleeve) as 52 cm. The table of reference (as given here in Step III) says 45 cm… Besides, we need two more measurements before we start drawing the sleeve: Ärmelbreite (width of sleeve) = 1/8 of Ow + 13 cm = 1/8 * 90 cm + 13 cm = 11,25 cm + 13 cm = 24, 5 cm Kugelhöhe (height of armscye) = 1/8 of Ow + 8,5 cm = 1/8 * 90 cm + 8,5 cm = 11,25 cm + 8,5 cm = 19 cm As you can see, I round the final values up a bit… All right, then. ONE. On the right hand side you see what our sleeve construction should look like afterwards… (the figure on the left hand side shows the way we’ll have to modify our master pattern before drawing our paper pattern, but I’ll repost that one when neccessary) sleeve002 Continue reading Step XII – Or: The Puzzling Case of the Sleeve