Tag Archives: men’s tailoring

Test Coat Step VI – Lining

Let’s start with the front lining. First of all, I found I had to change the pattern a little there. As you can see in the first picture, I took away some width of the front facing, reducing it to about 15 cm (the line in black ink).

front_lining01

Have a look at what the book has to say about the cut of the lining pieces:

front_lining00

As you can see, it’s quite straightforward. I decided against the darts, since I do not have the shoulder arrow on the outside piece, either, and the vertical reduction seam (that starts at the armscye) is so narrow, in my pattern, thatI do not think it will make a difference with regard to the fit. Besides… the lazy bunch at Belstaff obviously didn’t do either of those darts anyway 😉 Continue reading Test Coat Step VI – Lining

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Test Coat Step V – Lapel and front facing

To prepare the front edge of the coat, we need two long strips (about 1 cm wide) of lining fabric, cut on bias.

front_facing00

On the lapel, baste the bias stripe onto the hair canvas (in the picture, the tape is placed on the edge of the hair canvas, but not basted yet).

front_facing04

At the waist, make a short cut into the hair canvas and move the bias tape between the outer fabric and the interfacing. Continue reading Test Coat Step V – Lapel and front facing

Test Coat Step IV – Pockets

Finally I get to write a little update here. It’s not that I haven’t made any progress, I just preferred making things to posting about them, due to time restrictions…

I finished the pockets despite, as you will be able to see in the pictures, some problems with my sewing machine, specifically thread tension.

pocket001pocket002

First, I copied the pattern, added the to be folded facing part at the top of the pocket (about 1”) and cut a corresponding piece of lining, as you can see in the second picture.

Continue reading Test Coat Step IV – Pockets

Test Coat Step III – The Belt

For the most part, making the belt was straightforward – I’m not entirely happy with it, though. You’ll see why, in a minute.

The four belt pieces are identical in shape. I chalked the rounded corners on the wool pieces as well as two pieces of the light hair canvas (believing that interfacing only one of the backing parts of each belt-half ought to suffice… then).

belt01

Continue reading Test Coat Step III – The Belt

Test Coat Step I – The Front Pieces and The Welt Pockets

Finally I have had the time to start work on the coat itself! And it’s very pleasing to do something involving needle and thread and not merely rulers and paper!

Preparing the front pieces

After closing the seam running from the armscye downwards and securing the slit that will later be covered by the pocket, I started, enthusiastically, by padding the hair canvas to the right front piece. Because it interested me. And because I wanted to see the effect this had on the fall of the fabric for myself.
Well. What I should have done before, is a) ironing fusible interfacing on the area where the welt pockets are going to be inserted in the next step, and b) fix the placket in the shoulder area.
As I only realised this after I had completed the padding, I had to remove the whole thing again, of course. Well, it didn’t happen again on the left front piece afterwards…

The closed side dart and the horizontal cut covered by fusible interfacing. You can also see the area where the welt pocket will go, which I have also doubled with the same light, woven fusible.
finish_front00

Continue reading Test Coat Step I – The Front Pieces and The Welt Pockets

Cutting outer fabric and a bit of hair canvas…

This has only partly been in coming so long because of, well, procrastination on my part… I had to switch to an older camera that’s got severe connectability issues with anything newer than XP. But now it’s running just fine, so I can properly update again.

All right. First of all, a picture of the collection of different hair canvases and other interfacings I ordered for trying out on the test coat:

interfacing_collection
I’ll add more specific description when I get to using them… Most are the sew-in variant, but there are also two fusibles I might try on smaller bits and pieces.

Continue reading Cutting outer fabric and a bit of hair canvas…

The intended result…

I guess I should have done this before: post pictures of what the intended result with the pattern I'm adapting looks like.

In the schematic it's this. You see that there are a number of deviations from the Milford look I'm aiming for, that I've taken care of through changes as recorded in my posts of pattern construction, so far. Most notably the wider cut of the lapel, the lack of pleats or arrows in the back, and the pockets.
schematic_ulster01

And here's a little (like, tiny) drawing that, I think, shows the belt-less version, rather.
drawing_ulster01