Let’s start with the front lining. First of all, I found I had to change the pattern a little there. As you can see in the first picture, I took away some width of the front facing, reducing it to about 15 cm (the line in black ink).
Have a look at what the book has to say about the cut of the lining pieces:
As you can see, it’s quite straightforward. I decided against the darts, since I do not have the shoulder arrow on the outside piece, either, and the vertical reduction seam (that starts at the armscye) is so narrow, in my pattern, thatI do not think it will make a difference with regard to the fit. Besides… the lazy bunch at Belstaff obviously didn’t do either of those darts anyway 😉 Continue reading Test Coat Step VI – Lining
To prepare the front edge of the coat, we need two long strips (about 1 cm wide) of lining fabric, cut on bias.
On the lapel, baste the bias stripe onto the hair canvas (in the picture, the tape is placed on the edge of the hair canvas, but not basted yet).
At the waist, make a short cut into the hair canvas and move the bias tape between the outer fabric and the interfacing. Continue reading Test Coat Step V – Lapel and front facing
Finally I get to write a little update here. It’s not that I haven’t made any progress, I just preferred making things to posting about them, due to time restrictions…
I finished the pockets despite, as you will be able to see in the pictures, some problems with my sewing machine, specifically thread tension.
First, I copied the pattern, added the to be folded facing part at the top of the pocket (about 1”) and cut a corresponding piece of lining, as you can see in the second picture.
Continue reading Test Coat Step IV – Pockets
For the most part, making the belt was straightforward – I’m not entirely happy with it, though. You’ll see why, in a minute.
The four belt pieces are identical in shape. I chalked the rounded corners on the wool pieces as well as two pieces of the light hair canvas (believing that interfacing only one of the backing parts of each belt-half ought to suffice… then).
Continue reading Test Coat Step III – The Belt
The upper back was far less difficult than I had feared.
Darts and centre box pleat
I closed the darts, then used a lot of steam on them and beat them with a (decidedly unhandy and weird) piece of wood, as suggested by Jessamygriffin on her blog. (If you haven’t checked it out yet, you really ought to.) I tried my best to hit the seam itself, not the dart fabric, and I am pleased with the result.
I then closed the centre seam that starts at the middle of the neck opening down to where the pleat starts. I ironed the box pleat, again using a ridiculous amount of steam, and kept hitting the poor thing for quite some time. The result are reasonably crisp edges, as I hope you can see in the pictures. I’ll probably try and obtain, or make, a more suitable clapper – since the ready-made ones I’ve seen on the Internet so far are incredibly expensive for a piece of wood 😉
Continue reading Test Coat Step II – The Upper Back
Finally I have had the time to start work on the coat itself! And it’s very pleasing to do something involving needle and thread and not merely rulers and paper!
Preparing the front pieces
After closing the seam running from the armscye downwards and securing the slit that will later be covered by the pocket, I started, enthusiastically, by padding the hair canvas to the right front piece. Because it interested me. And because I wanted to see the effect this had on the fall of the fabric for myself.
Well. What I should have done before, is a) ironing fusible interfacing on the area where the welt pockets are going to be inserted in the next step, and b) fix the placket in the shoulder area.
As I only realised this after I had completed the padding, I had to remove the whole thing again, of course. Well, it didn’t happen again on the left front piece afterwards…
The closed side dart and the horizontal cut covered by fusible interfacing. You can also see the area where the welt pocket will go, which I have also doubled with the same light, woven fusible.
Continue reading Test Coat Step I – The Front Pieces and The Welt Pockets