Test Coat Step VI – Lining

Let’s start with the front lining. First of all, I found I had to change the pattern a little there. As you can see in the first picture, I took away some width of the front facing, reducing it to about 15 cm (the line in black ink).

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Have a look at what the book has to say about the cut of the lining pieces:

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As you can see, it’s quite straightforward. I decided against the darts, since I do not have the shoulder arrow on the outside piece, either, and the vertical reduction seam (that starts at the armscye) is so narrow, in my pattern, thatI do not think it will make a difference with regard to the fit. Besides… the lazy bunch at Belstaff obviously didn’t do either of those darts anyway 😉

As a right-handed person, I place the inside pocket – just as the original – on the left side of the coat. After some research, I decided to place it about 5 cm above the topmost button position, and made it 13 cm wide. I think I will go with 15 cm in the “real” coat later on, though. The next pictures show the thread marking:

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What follows now, is a standard bound pocket, and you’ll find a more detailed step-by-step instruction in any sewing book.

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Stabilise the lining with some fusible interfacing. Be clever and use lighter one than I did here… It remained visible from the right side.

Sew on the piping pieces (that’s where the two parallel seams you see in the left-hand side picture come from) on the right side. Cut open the slit, stopping about 1,5 cm from each end to create the triangle shapes at the short ends.

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Pull the piping through the cut. Iron so that the pipings meet at the centre.

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Baste the pocket closed. Machine stitch along the long edges. Move the triangles onto the other side, as well, and machine stitch to the pipings (please, do look this up in some sewing book).

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You need two rectangular pieces, one lining fabric, one some (random) cloth. They are sewn onto the pipngs’ seam allowances…

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…and then stitched together to form a simple pocket.

This prepared lining is now attached to the front facing, which I had to change accordingly (see the new chalk line).

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The next two pictures show the result. For easier handling during the rest of the process the lining is basted to the outer fabric. I also fastened the welt pocket pouch as well as the inside pocket pouch to the hair canvas to make sure things stay in place later on.

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