Test Coat Step V – Lapel and front facing

To prepare the front edge of the coat, we need two long strips (about 1 cm wide) of lining fabric, cut on bias.

front_facing00

On the lapel, baste the bias stripe onto the hair canvas (in the picture, the tape is placed on the edge of the hair canvas, but not basted yet).

front_facing04

At the waist, make a short cut into the hair canvas and move the bias tape between the outer fabric and the interfacing. front_facing02  front_facing05

Here you can see the finished front edge. The bias tape runs all the way down to the hem.

front_facing01

For the short edge at the lapel point you need a strip of the same lining fabric, but this time cut on grain. Baste, as well.

front_facing03

Before turning the lapel/facing right side out, you have to cut back the seam allowances, but gradedly. Also, make sure you remove enough of the fabric to allow the lapel point to turn properly.

front_facing06

This is, what my coat looks like after turning, ironing, and temporarily stitching the edge fast. This seam (which is clearly visible, running along the entire collar, in a lot of shots on the show) will be done with the machine once the pieces have hung out properly.

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