Test Coat Step IV – Pockets

Finally I get to write a little update here. It’s not that I haven’t made any progress, I just preferred making things to posting about them, due to time restrictions…

I finished the pockets despite, as you will be able to see in the pictures, some problems with my sewing machine, specifically thread tension.


First, I copied the pattern, added the to be folded facing part at the top of the pocket (about 1”) and cut a corresponding piece of lining, as you can see in the second picture.


After adding fusable interfacing to the pocket fabric (I know, maybe I should not have started using fusable now…) I stitched the tops of pocket and lining right sides together, leaving an opening of about 2” for turning it later.


Sew the seams all the way round (except for the top, obviously), preferrably with a machine that doesn’t make it look like mine did… Take care that you round the lower corners.


Remove excess fabric and carefully notch the seam allowances at the lower corners. This is what my first pocket looked like after turning it right side out and ironing.

Now to the flap… Which is pretty straightforward.


I decided to reinforce the flaps a litte, so I put, again fusible, interfacing onto one of the flap pieces, namely the one that would later be on the outside. The interfacing rectangles are almost exactly the size of the finished flap – I just added a few millimetres at the top for more sturdiness where the flap will be stitched onto the coat front.


Sew on three sides. Note that I stitched the endings, on the seam allowances at the top, at a slight inwards angle.

Cut back the other seam allowances and remove the corners before turning so that the resulting corners will look reasonably sharp and not too bulky.


Turn, iron and stitch about 1/8 ” (0,5 cm) around the edges. The chalk line indicates where it will be stitched onto the coat, then folded downwards and stitched fast again.


Position the flap on the front piece according to pattern, sew fast right above the horizontal cut. Then cut back the excess fabric to no more than 1/8″.


Fold down the flap, iron, and add a seam as close to the upper edge as possible – but be careful that the horizontal cut is indeed covered!


The pocket itself is easily positioned and attached. In the picture you see I basted before machine-stitching.


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