Okay. This has taken me inexcusably long due to different RL issues, including the cold in my sewing room… But I’ve finally finished the first set of the tissue pattern.
I cut seperate patterns for the following outer fabric pieces: belt, pockets, upper and under collar, upper and under collar stand; plus patterns for the front facing and hair canvas interfacing.
I have not cut patterns for upper and under sleeves, cuffs, all the lining (and the intermediate lining I am still considering) or the placket, yet.
So, here goes:
ONE. The upper back.
For pattern construction and adaptations see Step VI.
This one’s relatively easily copied. We’ll only have to add the pleats at the centre back. Since the pattern we constructed does not include seam allowance here, we can just add 2 stripes of 3 cm width, running parallel to the centre back seam line. This piece will have to be cut on fold later on, or we’d end up with a seam inside the box pleat…
TWO. The lower back.
For pattern construction and adjustments see Step V.
It’s mostly simple copying; again we need to add the box pleat at the centre back. Take care here, and with the side pleats, as they all change in width from top to bottom! This piece will alos be cut on fold.
THREE. The belt.
THREE. The front.
For pattern construction and adjustments see Step VII and Step VIII.
For the outer fabric pattern, I pivoted the master pattern around a point near the front end of the pocket, as visible in a picture from my tailoring book. I hope you can make out the dart this produced: This way you get the characteristical vertical seam running from the armscye straight down to the pocket, and a short horizontal seam hidden behind the pocket.
In addition I cut a pattern for the hair canvas interfacing (top) and the front facing (bottom). The hair canvas gets a longer, rounded dart to add a little width in the breast, and a shorter, narrow horizontal dart.
FOUR. Collar and pockets.
Originally drawn up here and here.
And eventually, here’s a close-up of the collar, collar stand, pocket and flap pattern pieces. You see that there’s an extra line along the upper collar edge, that would make it less rounded. I will have to try this on the mock up, but when drawing it seemed to me that the rounded version doesn’t match the Milford really.