Okay, there IS a reason why it took me forever to get on with the pattern. I was having a heated debate with myself about the sleeve. A coat like this ought to have a sleeve consisting of two pieces! I know that Jessamygriffin went with a one-pice sleeve, and the result looks fine, but well… In the back views of the coat you can see one seam running along the back of the arm (which kind of seriously suggests that the sleeve indeed was cut in two pieces), but there is no **proof** of a second seam on the inside of the arm, which would be conclusive evidence… After a little chat with the brilliant Bee, best beta and incredibly knowledgeable friend, I have now finally decided to try a two-piece sleeve. The cuff that will be added later on, of course, will need to be made of only one, continuous piece of fabric. First of all, I need to make a confession. I have *ridiculously *long arms. So don’t wonder if I determine my Ärl = Ärmellänge (length of sleeve) as **52 cm**. The table of reference (as given here in Step III) says 45 cm… Besides, we need two more measurements before we start drawing the sleeve: **Ärmelbreite** (width of sleeve) = 1/8 of Ow + 13 cm = 1/8 * 90 cm + 13 cm = 11,25 cm + 13 cm = **24, 5 cm** **Kugelhöhe **(height of armscye) = 1/8 of Ow + 8,5 cm = 1/8 * 90 cm + 8,5 cm = 11,25 cm + 8,5 cm = **19 cm** As you can see, I round the final values up a bit… All right, then. ONE. On the right hand side you see what our sleeve construction should look like afterwards… (the figure on the left hand side shows the way we’ll have to modify our master pattern before drawing our paper pattern, but I’ll repost that one when neccessary) TWO. We start with line **AB**, which is as long as our **Ärmelbreite**, i.e. 24,5 cm for me, and a line set at a right angle beginning in A. THREE. Halve **AB** and mark point **K**. Then halve **AK** again and mark point **a**. FOUR. Mark point **D** on the vertical line, the distance between **A** and **D** is the **Kugelhöhe** we calculated above, so 19 cm for me. FIVE. Mark point **L** as many cm removed from **D** as you determined your sleeve length should be (52 cm here). SIX. To find point E, calculate its distance from D as: **0,5 * Ärl – 1,5 cm** (which is 0,5 * 52 cm – 1,5 cm = 24,5 cm in this case). SEVEN. Add point **V** 3,5 cm below **L**. EIGHT. Draw auxiliary lines perpendicular to our two base lines, intersecting, or starting, in **K, B, D, E and V**. NINE. Mark point **F** 4 cm above **D**, and connect it to **a** by a diagonal aux line. TEN. Find point **C** – it’s 0,25 * Ärmelbreite (here: 0,25 * 24,5 cm = 6,1 cm) below **B** – and connect **C** and **K** by another diagonal aux line. ELEVEN. Add point **e** 1,5 cm to the right of **E**, and draw a line running from **D**, through **e** to **L**. TWELVE. I decided on a width for the cuff of 18 cm here and drew in the line accordingly, so that it starts in** L** and intersects with the horizontal auxiliary line at a distance of 18 cm. Mark point **R** there! THIRTEEN. Mark point **d **3 cm to the left of **D,** add a (unnamed) point 3 cm to the left of **e**, and mirror the cuff line at **L** as shown in the first picture; then connect (2nd picture). FOURTEEN. Continue this inner seem upwards 1,5 cm, its ending point is labelled** d1**. FIFTEEN. Start a small, horizontal aux line in **d1** and mark 1 cm for the seam allowance. SIXTEEN. Draw the upper sleeve curve, ending in **C** for now. The little red mark on the aux line from **F** to **a** is right in the middle of that line. SEVENTEEN. Now we switch to the under sleeve for a while. Draw a parallel line to the **d1–e-L-line** 1,5 cm to the right. EIGHTEEN. Label the intersection shown in the picture **M**. Draw a horizontal aux line 1 cm above. NINETEEN. Mark **m** 1,5 cm to the left of **M**. TWENTY. Add another horizontal aux line beginning in **C** and running to the left. Mark **c** at a distance of 3 cm. TWENTY-ONE. Connect **m** and **c**, and draw the first part of the curve for the under sleeve. Note the 1 cm of seam allowance at the left edge. TWENTY-TWO. On that same **m-c** line you find **c1** at a distance of 4 cm from **c**. TWENTY-THREE. Mark the 1 cm seam allowance to the right of **c1**. TWENTY-FOUR. Add point** e1** 1 cm the the left of **E1**. TWENTY-FIVE. Finish your under sleeve master pattern by, first, connecting **E1** and **R** by a straight line, and then drawing a nice curvey back seam that runs through **e1** at the elbow, as shown in the picture. TWENTY-SIX. Only some small additions to finish our upper sleeve master pattern, now. Mark **c2** at a distance of 4 cm from **C** on the aux line going through **c1**. TWENTY-SEVEN. Finish by adding the 1 cm seam allowance to **c2 **and then drawing the curved back seam of the upper sleeve. Take care that this line cuts through **E1 **at the elbow. I’m quite pleased with the result so far, though I guess I should wait how the sleeves of the mock turn out…

# Step XII – Or: The Puzzling Case of the Sleeve

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Your friend is quite smart. A high end tailoring company like Belstaff would use a two piece sleeve. One of the ways you can tell (other than by seams) is by the way the sleeve has a slight curve to it, from shoulder to wrist, in the same shape as your arm, when it’s relaxed at your side. Your elbow causes there to be a slight curving to your arm. While an elbow dart (or several) can get a similar effect, this sleeve has more contour than an elbow dart will accommodate.

PS. Your pattern looks beautiful. This is the way we pattern our two piece sleeves here at Duchess.