Step XII – Or: The Puzzling Case of the Sleeve

Okay, there IS a reason why it took me forever to get on with the pattern. I was having a heated debate with myself about the sleeve.  A coat like this ought to have a sleeve consisting of two pieces! I know that Jessamygriffin went with a one-pice sleeve, and the result looks fine, but well… In the back views of the coat you can see one seam running along the back of the arm (which kind of seriously suggests that the sleeve indeed was cut in two pieces), but there is no proof of a second seam on the inside of the arm, which would be conclusive evidence… After a little chat with the brilliant Bee, best beta and incredibly knowledgeable friend, I have now finally decided to try a two-piece sleeve. The cuff that will be added later on, of course, will need to be made of only one, continuous piece of fabric. First of all, I need to make a confession. I have ridiculously long arms. So don’t wonder if I determine my Ärl = Ärmellänge (length of sleeve) as 52 cm. The table of reference (as given here in Step III) says 45 cm… Besides, we need two more measurements before we start drawing the sleeve: Ärmelbreite (width of sleeve) = 1/8 of Ow + 13 cm = 1/8 * 90 cm + 13 cm = 11,25 cm + 13 cm = 24, 5 cm Kugelhöhe (height of armscye) = 1/8 of Ow + 8,5 cm = 1/8 * 90 cm + 8,5 cm = 11,25 cm + 8,5 cm = 19 cm As you can see, I round the final values up a bit… All right, then. ONE. On the right hand side you see what our sleeve construction should look like afterwards… (the figure on the left hand side shows the way we’ll have to modify our master pattern before drawing our paper pattern, but I’ll repost that one when neccessary) sleeve002 TWO. We start with line AB, which is as long as our Ärmelbreite, i.e. 24,5 cm for me, and a line set at a right angle beginning in A. sleeve003 THREE. Halve AB and mark point K. Then halve AK again and mark point a. sleeve005 FOUR. Mark point D on the vertical line, the distance between A and D is the Kugelhöhe we calculated above, so 19 cm for me. sleeve006 FIVE. Mark point L as many cm removed from D as you determined your sleeve length should be (52 cm here). sleeve007 SIX. To find point E, calculate its distance from D as: 0,5 * Ärl – 1,5 cm (which is 0,5 * 52 cm – 1,5 cm = 24,5 cm in this case). sleeve008 SEVEN. Add point V 3,5 cm below L. sleeve009 EIGHT. Draw auxiliary lines perpendicular to our two base lines, intersecting, or starting, in K, B, D, E and V. sleeve011 NINE. Mark point F 4 cm above D, and connect it to a by a diagonal aux line. sleeve014 TEN. Find point C – it’s 0,25 * Ärmelbreite (here: 0,25 * 24,5 cm = 6,1 cm) below B – and connect C and K by another diagonal aux line. sleeve015 ELEVEN. Add point e 1,5 cm to the right of E, and draw a line running from D, through e to L. sleeve017 TWELVE. I decided on a width for the cuff of 18 cm here and drew in the line accordingly, so that it starts in L and intersects with the horizontal auxiliary line at a distance of 18 cm. Mark point R there! sleeve018 THIRTEEN. Mark point d 3 cm to the left of D, add a (unnamed) point 3 cm to the left of e, and mirror the cuff line at L as shown in the first picture; then connect (2nd picture). sleeve021 sleeve022 FOURTEEN. Continue this inner seem upwards 1,5 cm, its ending point is labelled d1. sleeve023 FIFTEEN. Start a small, horizontal aux line in d1 and mark 1 cm for the seam allowance. sleeve024 SIXTEEN. Draw the upper sleeve curve, ending in C for now. The little red mark on the aux line from F to a is right in the middle of that line. sleeve026 SEVENTEEN. Now we switch to the under sleeve for a while. Draw a parallel line to the d1e-L-line 1,5 cm to the right. sleeve028 EIGHTEEN. Label the intersection shown in the picture M. Draw a horizontal aux line 1 cm above. sleeve030 NINETEEN. Mark m 1,5 cm to the left of M. sleeve031 TWENTY. Add another horizontal aux line beginning in C and running to the left. Mark c at a distance of 3 cm. sleeve032 TWENTY-ONE. Connect m and c, and draw the first part of the curve for the under sleeve. Note the 1 cm of seam allowance at the left edge. sleeve033 TWENTY-TWO. On that same m-c line you find c1 at a distance of 4 cm from c. sleeve034 TWENTY-THREE. Mark the 1 cm seam allowance to the right of c1. sleeve035 TWENTY-FOUR. Add point e1 1 cm the the left of E1. sleeve036 TWENTY-FIVE. Finish your under sleeve master pattern by, first, connecting E1 and R by a straight line, and then drawing a nice curvey back seam that runs through e1 at the elbow, as shown in the picture. sleeve037 TWENTY-SIX. Only some small additions to finish our upper sleeve master pattern, now. Mark c2 at a distance of 4 cm from C on the aux line going through c1. sleeve039 TWENTY-SEVEN. Finish by adding the 1 cm seam allowance to c2 and then drawing the curved back seam of the upper sleeve. Take care that this line cuts through E1 at the elbow. sleeve040 I’m quite pleased with the result so far, though I guess I should wait how the sleeves of the mock turn out…


2 thoughts on “Step XII – Or: The Puzzling Case of the Sleeve”

  1. Your friend is quite smart. A high end tailoring company like Belstaff would use a two piece sleeve. One of the ways you can tell (other than by seams) is by the way the sleeve has a slight curve to it, from shoulder to wrist, in the same shape as your arm, when it’s relaxed at your side. Your elbow causes there to be a slight curving to your arm. While an elbow dart (or several) can get a similar effect, this sleeve has more contour than an elbow dart will accommodate.

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