This will be, by far, the shortest and easiest of all the pattern construction steps.
BUT: I suspect that the collar might well be the piece that needs a lot of attention later on to get it just right.
The thing is: Ulster coats usually use a different pattern for the upper and under collar. In order to achieve a perfectly flat lie of the collar, fabric is added to the under collar, which can be done in two (or more, probably) different ways. Since I have absolutely no idea if this will be necessary, and considering that the Milford according to all available sources does NOT have a pieced-together under collar, I will try to use an under collar that’s identical to the upper collar, for now.
We’ll see how that works out during fitting.
On the upside, the under collar is not that large a piece that having to cut it again would be dramatic. On the downside, the standing collar part would be affected, too, so the entire under collar, interfacing an all, would have to be done again.
So, the collar pattern will (for now) consist of two parts: the collar stand, and the collar (proper). We’ll get patterns for both by doing the following construction on our master pattern.
Add k2 at 3,5 cm from k1; this measure means, the width of our collar stand later will be approximately 3 cm.
I admit that all this was a bit tricky, reconciling RayR’s measurements with the general Ulster instructions. I’m curious how it will work out.
Ususally, the line from k3 to the collar point is slightly rounded, as I did in blue ink here. BUT: I tend to believe that, because the Milford has the rather unusual configuration of a lapel that is narrower than the collar, that might not be accurate in this case. I can’t really see any indication of such a curved edge in the pictured of the original, anyway.
So, it might well be better to use the straight pencil line you see in the picture, later.
Finished. Now, that was not too bad, was it 🙂 The sleeve will be a different matter altogether, again…