Step XI – Collar construction

This will be, by far, the shortest and easiest of all the pattern construction steps.

BUT: I suspect that the collar might well be the piece that needs a lot of attention later on to get it just right.
The thing is: Ulster coats usually use a different pattern for the upper and under collar. In order to achieve a perfectly flat lie of the collar, fabric is added to the under collar, which can be done in two (or more, probably) different ways. Since I have absolutely no idea if this will be necessary, and considering that the Milford according to all available sources does NOT have a pieced-together under collar, I will try to use an under collar that’s identical to the upper collar, for now.
We’ll see how that works out during fitting.
On the upside, the under collar is not that large a piece that having to cut it again would be dramatic. On the downside, the standing collar part would be affected, too, so the entire under collar, interfacing an all, would have to be done again.

So, the collar pattern will (for now) consist of two parts: the collar stand, and the collar (proper). We’ll get patterns for both by doing the following construction on our master pattern.

Extend the (red) roll line of the lapel upwards. The intersection with the horizontal auxiliary line is labelled h1.

Find the point on that extended red line that is removed from H1 as many centimetres as your … Mark aux point k.

Draw a short aux line perpendicular to and to the right side of our red extended line, starting in k. I marked k1 at a distance of 3 cm from k, as the book suggested.

Now find the place where the distance between the enxtended lapel roll line and our already finished neckline is maximal. I marked it here with a little red aux line and labelled point n1.

Okay, free hand time again. Draw a nice curve connecting n1 and k1.

Add k2 at 3,5 cm from k1; this measure means, the width of our collar stand later will be approximately 3 cm.
I admit that all this was a bit tricky, reconciling RayR’s measurements with the general Ulster instructions. I’m curious how it will work out.

Draw another, roughly parallel curve beginning in the point opposite of n1 on the neckline and ending in k2.

Position the set square at a “right angle” to the end of that last curve and draw the center back of the collar.

Mark point k3; following the original Milford’s specifications, it is 10 cm from k2.
Continue the first curve we drew from k1 to the center back.

Go to the lapel point we already have and measure the 8,9 cm width of the collar, beginning in H3, as shown in the picture.

Ususally, the line from k3 to the collar point is slightly rounded, as I did in blue ink here. BUT: I tend to believe that, because the Milford has the rather unusual configuration of a lapel that is narrower than the collar, that might not be accurate in this case. I can’t really see any indication of such a curved edge in the pictured of the original, anyway.
So, it might well be better to use the straight pencil line you see in the picture, later.

Finished. Now, that was not too bad, was it 🙂 The sleeve will be a different matter altogether, again…


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