Step IX – Front construction (Step III), Lapels, buttons.

Almost done on the front piece now. Honestly 🙂

THIRTY-SIX.
This is a close-up of where we’ll draw the lapels. Please ignore my pencil markings for now, they are left-overs of a botched attempt 😉
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Mark the end of the line at 3,5 cm above its intersection with the horizontal auxiliary neck line.
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Connect that point with H3. Obviously, this is not the finished shape of the lapel point yet, but an approximation.
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THIRTY-SEVEN.
From the pictures I gauged that the middle row of buttons on the coat are places slightly below the waist line. So I marked the position of the first button 2 cm below the auxiliary waist line and 5,7 cm to the right of the centre front (because the button “columns” are 11,4 cm removed, remember?).
Measuring 10 cm upwards and downwards from that button I marked the positions of the other two buttons, as the following two pictures show.
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THIRTY-EIGHT.
Draw the other three buttons 11,4 cm to the left of the ones already there. Please note, that these positions might well be adapted after we’ve cut our fabric.
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THIRTY-NINE.
The roll line for the lapels end about 1 cm above the uppermost button. I marked the point on the front edge in blue here.
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FORTY.
Mark point h1, 2cm to the left of H1.
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FORTY-ONE.
Draw the roll line of the lapels, connecting h1 and the blue mark by a straight line (here in red).
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FORTY-TWO.
As we know that the lapel is 7,8 cm wide, I marked this length on the aux line and drew a freehand lapel shape, keeping to the straight demarcation we have created at the beginning of this post.
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This is, how my lapel is shaped at the moment.
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FORTY-THREE.
Mirror your lapel at the roll line. Now you can see where it will end up when the coat is worn with the collar down (if it ever is…).
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FORTY-FOUR.
I am not sure in how far we’ll need this step but I include it for now. Add the lower edge of the collar, which we know is 8,9 cm wide.
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I indicated the position of the collar’s edge, drawing a dotted line here:
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