Step VIII – Front construction (Part II)

And on we go…

TWENTY.
Now let’s draw the armscye. There’s not much instruction there on this in my book, but from the looks of it I started with a symmetrical curve spanning the aux line we drew from A2 to point c before. This curve does not cross theother aux line in the pic (At-A1). The rest of the skye is another curve that meets the line At-D about four and a half centimeters from point At, kind of clings to that line for a bit before rising to reach a point 0,75 cm to the left of S2. This odd little horizontal line there is due to the fact that our pattern already includes seam allowances in most places! (Which I should maybe have pointed out earlier… And I surely will do so again, when we go on to cutting the fabric.)
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TWENTY-ONE.
Add aux point a four cm right of At.
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TWENTY-THREE.
Put in a marker for correct positioning of the sleeve 4 cm above At.
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TWENTY-FOUR. NOTE: The following steps regarding the pocket are preliminary! Use pencil only!!
All right, this step is about placing the pocket at the right height. The suggested distance from point H (on the waist line) is 8 to 10 cm, so I went with 9 cm here. We will have to come back and see if that really works out for us, so point Ta is only preliminary!
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TWENTY-FIVE.
The standard Ulster pocket measures about 17 cm in width and is usually slightly tipped towards the front, so that’s what I do for now (remember: preliminary!!)
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TWENTY-SIX.
We will definitely need this red auxiliary line running vertically from a to the pocket.
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TWENTY-SEVEN. NOTE: From here on not preliminary anymore 🙂
Add L5 two cm below L4.
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TWENTY-EIGHT.
Draw a perpendicular line starting in L5 and mark point L6 on this, 1,5 cm to the left.
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TWENTY-NINE.
Long ruler time! Connect point U to L6 by a long straight line. This new line completes the center front line downwards from U.
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THIRTY.
Fill in the rest od the hem line with a slightly curved line connecting L5 and L2. I used a flexible ruler but that was not all the helpful…
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THIRTY-ONE.
Let’s do the neckline. Again, too much guesswork for my taste, but well… You have to connect H3 and H1 by a curved line. The beginning of this is a straight line for about 4 cm (this is the seam dividing the lapel later on) and then slopes upwards to H1.
This might be a spot of bother later, I guess…
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THIRTY-TWO.
Almost finished 🙂 It took quite a bit of picture analysis and comparing with the specs provided by RayR to determine the width of the front… flap(?), that is the width of the overlapping part of coat in the front.
In the classical Ulster they use 12 cm, which is FAR more than the Milford has.
Each button has a diameter of 1″ and are about 2 cm away from the edge. Since the buttons are set 11,4 cm apart, and the center front line lies in the middle between them, the overlap calculates as 0,5 * 11,4 cm + 1/2″ (1,25 cm) + 2 cm = 8,95 cm.
I go with an overlap of 9 cm therefore and see how that works out.
So, along the front centre, and perpendicular to it, we need to draw auxiliary lines of 9 cm length.
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THIRTY-THREE.
Connect the ends of those aux lines. You will most like, like my, get a slight bend at the waist line.
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