Step VII – Front construction (Part I)

Okay, it’s time to start on the front pattern. Since this takes quite a number of steps and integrated adaptations, I’ll split this in two parts…

ONE.
Extend your auxiliary lines (except the first one starting in W, we won’t need that one anymore) and mark point D at a distance of your choice from r. I recommend at least 13 cm (I used 11 cm and that turned out to be too little…).
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TWO.
Mark point At. Its distance from D is your value for Ad minus 4 cm (since we added 4 cm to the back piece before).

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THREE.
Draw a secondary aux line, at a right angle, through At. Where that crosses the waist aux line, you get point H (It’s not in the pic).
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FOUR.
Mark point Ad on that secondary aux line. Its distance from At equals your value for At (27,25 cm for me).
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FIVE.
Mark point B. The distance At-B is the same as your value for B.
Mark point U, with its distance from H the same as your value for Bau. (For me, B and Bau values are the same)
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SIX.
Mark points e and f in the middle of At-B and H-U respectively. Draw another secondary aux line through those two points and extend it upwards. Where it meets the perpendicular line starting in point Ad, you get a new point, called H1.
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SEVEN.
Mark point H2. It is as far from H1 as your Hs value (8 cm for me).
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EIGHT.
Draw another aux line starting in H2, going to the left hand side. On this line, mark point H3. Its distance is your Hs 2,5 cm.
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NINE.
Now get the LONG ruler, and connect H3 and B, then B and U by straight lines. NOTE: The angles you get between those lines and the chest and waist aux lines needn’t be 90° (in the pic you can see that line H3-B is not at a right angle to the chest aux line, while line B-U is, but that is merely a coincidence because my Bau and B values are exactly the same).
The line H3-B-U is the coat’s center front.
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TEN.
Extend the line downwards at a RIGHT angle to the waist line. This is important later on! The intersection with the bottom aux line is labelled L5 (only not in the pic yet :))
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ELEVEN.
Switch to the shoulder: 3 cm below point Ad, mark point A1.
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TWELVE.
Now let’s draw the shoulder seam. Use the value you got for the shoulder seam in the back piece – 1,5 cm. Draw the line accordingly, starting in H1, going through A1, ending in point A2.
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THIRTEEN.
Draw aux point c 6 cm above At. Connect c and A2 with a straight line.
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FIFTEEN.
Draw a line downwards from and perpendicular to the chest aux line, starting in point D. Its intersection with the waist line is labelled T3.
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SIXTEEN.
Draw auxiliary point t1, 1,5 cm to the right of T3.
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SEVENTEEN.
Now we need a LONG straight line that goes through t1 and D, and that extends all the way down to the bottom aux line (which you cannot see in the pics here). The line section above D ends in the new point S2. The line D-S2 measures 4 cm (just like the corresponding section in the back piece).
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EIGHTEEN.
The intersection of the aux line we just drew with the bottom aux line is point L3. You can see here, that my back and front piece should ideally have been set apart a little wider…
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NINETEEN.
Now we can mark our lower side seam (mine’s in blue) by connecting L3 and T3. It continues from T3 to D and upwards to S2. The line looks dotted in the first pic; it isn’t really.
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