Step III – Preparatory measuring and calculating

So, I'll give you my major measurements and the auxiliaries that I calculate from here as an example:

  • Kg (German Körpergröße = height) is 180 cm. My book gives data only for men up to 176 cm but I'll just add a little in length later on.
  • Ow (G Oberweite = chest circumference) is 90 cm. If you compare with the table below, you see that means I'm approximately a men's size 46.
  • Uw (G Unterweite = waist): is 70 cm but since this is supposed to be a men's coat, I will use the 80 cm the book gives instead.

This table (middle of the page) gives you the average major and auxiliary measurements for men of 172 cm (left hand part) / 176 cm (on the right).

measurements_table

Now, let's calculate my auxiliary measurements and compare them to the book's (for size 46):

  • Tl (G Taillenlänge = "length to waist") 1/4 Kg 1 ==> 46 cm (45 cm)
  • Rh (G Rückenhöhe = "length of back") 1/8 OW 1/4 Tl ==> 11 cm 11,5 cm = 22,75 cm (22,5 cm)
  • Lg (G Länge = length) something around 120 cm, I'd say. Have to test, though.
  • At (G Armlochtiefe = depth of armhole) Rh 1,5 cm ==> 22,75 cm 1,5 cm = 24,25 cm (24 cm)
  • Rb (G Rückenbreite = width of back) 2/10 OW 1 cm ==>18 cm 1 cm = 19 cm (19,4 cm)
  • A'd (G Armlochdurchmesser = diameter of the armhole) 1/8 OW 3 cm ==> 11,25 cm 3 cm = 14,25 cm (14,5 cm)
  • Hs (G Halslochspiegel = width of neck opening) 1/20 OW 3 cm ==> 4,5 cm 3 cm = 7,5 cm (7,6 cm)
  • B (G Brustbreite = width of chest) 1/4 OW – 1 cm ==> 22,5 cm – 1 cm = 21,5 cm (22 cm)
  • Bau (G Bauchbreite = width of belly) 1/4 UW 1,5 cm ==> 20 cm 1,5 cm = 21,5 cm (22 cm)

You can work with these major and auxiliary measurements now, when we start drawing up our pattern. Alternatively, you may want to use your real measurements instead of calculated ones. I'll put up the instructions the book gives to get those in a later post.

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