Step II – Taking measurements

Alright, out of nothing but the need to get rid some of the stress I’m currently under in RL, I’m going to update here. In case anyone’s reading, don’t fear I’ve dropped off the face of the earth or anything, I only have to take a kind of final (like ultimately final) exam soon, and therefore can’t spare any resources to the coat project right now.
Or almost none, cause I WILL tell you which measurements we’ll be needing to construct our basic made-to-measure Ulster pattern for the Milford…

So, here we go (thumbs through her ancient, expensive, clever book), ladies and gentlemen. Take your tapes, grab a friend or family member and find out the following measurements:

Kg (German Körpergröße = height)
Ow (G Oberweite = chest circumference)
Uw (G Unterweite = waist)

These are the so-called Hauptmaße (major measurements). The following measurements will be needed as well, and we’ll calculate them or decide upon them when we start drawing our pattern:

Rh (G Rückenhöhe = “length of back”) 1/8 OW +1/4Tl
Tl (G Taillenlänge = “length of waist”) 1/4 Kg +1 cm
Lg (G Länge = length)
At (G Armlochtiefe = depth of armhole/armscye) Rh +1,5 cm
Rb (G Rückenbreite = breadth of back) 2/10 OW +1 cm
A’d (G Armlochdurchmesser = diameter of the armhole/armscye) 1/8 OW +3 cm
Hs (G Halslochspiegel = width of neck opening) 1/20 OW +3 cm
B (G Brustbreite = width of chest)
  • if OW < 100 cm: 1/4 OW -1 cm
  • if OW 101-111 cm: 1/4 OW -1,5 cm
  • if OW >112 cm: 1/4 OW – 2 cm
Bau (G Bauchbreite = width of belly) 1/4 UW +1,5 cm

Well, you can easily see from the measurements required that this IS indeed a coat for men *g* So I’ll probably not be working with my real measurements in some instances since the Ulster is not meant to be “fitting” in the usual sense of the word… Fortunately, the book offers a lot of average measurements for different heights etc. Well, we’ll see…


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