Things are beginning to come together! I have eventually managed to get hold of that men's tailoring book I've been searching for years (Der Zuschnitt für die Herrenschneiderei – System M. Müller) and to my utter delight, there is a pattern that's absolutely ideal as a basis for the Milford!
The Ulster coat included there is perfect in every respect, all I'll have to do is adding the pleats in the back and those welt-pockets on the front :-)
After finding this article here on the characteristics of an Ulster, I think it's safe to say that the Milford IS an Ulster variation…
Characteristics of an Ulster Coat
- A classic Ulster is rather long and double breasted, with two vertical, parallel rows of buttons. Often the ulster comes with a 6×3 or 8×4 button configuration while the buttons are placed quite low.
- Usually a double breasted garment has peaked lapels. The Ulster however has lapels that are notched in a certain way, so they can easily be folded over when the coat is buttoned up all the way. This is also known as the Ulster collar.
- In order to express the informal country character of the overcoat, the Ulster has always patch pockets.
- For the same reason, an Ulster shows contrast stitching along the edges and cuffs.
- You will always see cuffs on a true Ulster.
- Generally, the Ulster is cut rather roomy and hence may look a little bulky sometimes. In order to give the silhouette a little more shape, the Ulster usually has a belted back (aka half belt) with adjustable buttons so the wearer can change the degree of the waist suppression. For comfort and ease of movemnt, an Ulster has long pleats in the back. Sometimes you can also see a belt that goes completely around and buckles in the front – just like a trenchcoat.
- A genuine Ulster is made out of tweed, more specifically Donegal Tweed. This heavy tweed – starting at about 22 oz. per yard (about 600 g per meter) – was originally invented in Donegal County in the province of Ulster. It is characterized by its rustic, hand-woven look as well as its multi-colored dots.
So, grab your measuring tapes and prepare to get some measuring done soon!